Montmartre. You have probably heard of it as a place of the artists, where Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso and Vincent Van Gogh had studios and where the infamous whimsical movie Amélie was set.

The 18th arrondissement is one of the most diverse in Paris, with some of the most beautiful sights in the city located in 'the village' (the area that I will be focusing on here), and with some more ethnically diverse areas such as Château Rouge.

Historically, Montmartre was simply a quiet village on the outskirts of Paris - it only became part of the city in 1860 and apartments here are generally larger and cheaper than other areas of the city (or at least they used to be). This is why so many artists lived and breathed here, because it was cheaper, and probably because the winding little cobblestone streets and the beautiful view of Paris were sources of inspiration for them.

When I first moved to Paris I lived in the cutest flat in Montmartre. During my time there I got to spend quite a lot of time wandering the streets and soaking in the atmosphere. You get a real village feel here and although it's now very touristy, it's definitely worth visiting to see a bit of the 'classic' Paris that is always portrayed in films.

Things to Do and See in Montmartre

Visit the Sacré-Coeur 

Finished in 1914, the Sacré-Coeur is a Roman Catholic church which is dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. It's a popular landmark which is on butte Montmartre, the highest point in Paris which you can see clearly from some parts of the city - particularly when you climb to the top of the Arc de Triomphe.

Entrance to the church is free, unless you want to climb up to the very top and into the dome in which case it's under 10 euros.

Sit on the Steps and Watch the Sunset 

The view from the Sacré-Coeur is absolutely incredible. It's a little hard to spot the Eiffel Tower from here, but if you go all the way to the right (if your back is to the church), you should be able to spot it over Paris' rooftops.

Watch the artists at Place du Tertre

This whole square is full of colourful artists sat at their stalls on the cobblestone streets. This open-air art gallery is full of locals and (mostly) tourists, surrounded by buildings straight out of the 1900s: restaurants, crêperies and cafés. If you want a real souvenir from Paris, have your portrait drawn.

Stumble across la Maison Rose

This is probably the cutest little house in the whole of Montmartre, if not Paris. The romantic rose coloured walls and the cobblestone streets on either side of it make for the most picturesque scene, apparently Picasso spent quite a lot of time here!

It's a café and a restaurant but I have never been inside - every time I walked past it was shut. According to google it's 'permanently closed'(???) but according to a couple of people it was overpriced, mediocre/bad food anyway so stick to admiring it from the outside.

Location: 2 rue de l'Abreuvoir

Visit the Musée de Montmartre

Now a museum, 12 rue Cortot was where many artists lived including August Renoir, Suzanne Valadon and Émile Bernard. The permanent collection includes paintings, posters and drawings which show Montmartre's history. You can also take a look into an artistic studio-apartment and there is even a whole room dedicated to the can can in the museum. Full price entry is under 11 euros. For opening times please visit their website (here) as this varies seasonally.

Location: 12 rue Cortot

Go take a look at le mur des je t'aime 

The love wall! "I love you" is written 311 times in 250 languages. Apparently, the red bits on the wall represent a heart that's been broken, all the pieces together form a perfectly shaped heart - how sweet!

Location: Square Jehan-Rictus

Where to Eat and Drink

I don't have that many recommendations for traditional French food, for that you'll have to stroll the streets and you'll stumble across something for sure - Montmartre is full of traditional French cafés and restaurants, how cute and quintessential is the restaurant in the picture below?! Here are some places that are a little bit different that you are less likely to stumble upon.

Brunch & Lunch: Hardware Société 

The Hardware Société is, in my opinion, hands down the best brunch place in Paris. In fact, it only serves brunch - a restaurant dedicated to brunch. The restaurant was originally opened in Melbourne, Australia and made its way to Paris earlier last year, incorporating both Australian and French breakfast favourites into their menu.

They have it all: eggs, croissants (which come with incredible jam from la chambre aux confitures), bircher muesli, pain perdu, duck, salmon - you name it. The dishes are indulgent and should be savoured with every bite - the pain perdu that I had was raspberry and passion fruit flavoured and was honestly the best french toast I have ever had. If you would like to read more on the restaurant please click here. A lovely place to eat if you are not set on eating something traditionally French - although I'm sure that pain perdu counts?!

10 rue Lamarck, 75018 Paris
Monday, Thursday & Friday: 9am - 4pm; Saturday & Sunday: 9.30am - 4.30pm (closed Tuesday & Wednesday)

Rooftop bar: Terrass-Hotel

This is a great rooftop bar if you want to have a spectacular view of Paris, including a view of the Eiffel Tower. Drinks are somewhat on the expensive side, but that is to be expected due to the location, view and vibe up there! During summer it is very, very popular so try to get there early-ish to avoid queueing. They also have a restaurant if you would prefer to dine up there.

12-14 rue Joseph de Maistre, 75018
The bar is open every day from 3.30pm until 1am

Secret bar & restaurant: Hotel Particulier Montmartre 

Perhaps not a traditional 'secret bar', this establishment is a whole secret hotel with both a bar and a restaurant which is probably one of my favourite places in Paris. Walk up to the gates and press the intercom, stating that you're there for the bar. Walk down the little passageway and on your left you should see a beautiful private courtyard adorned with greenery, but make sure to spot a view of the Eiffel Tower before you go in. Then proceed to spend hours in the serene garden, drinking copious amounts of wine.

23 avenue Junot, 75018 Paris
Every day, 6pm - 2am

How to Get to Montmartre

• Metro line 12: Abbesses
• Metro line 2: Anvers

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Brunch is literally my favourite meal of the day, breakfast too. Luckily for me there were loads of yummy places to go to for breakfast and brunch when I was living in Paris. There's something for everyone in this list: from healthy, vegan, gluten free options to places that serve luscious pain perdu and scrambled eggs with bacon, here are my favourites - enjoy!

Paperboy

For 25 euros you can choose their formule brunch which includes a main course (lots of eggs), a bread basket, a hot drink and a juice. You can also go à la carte and order their açai bowl, sandwiches, yoghurt with granola or pain perdu.

137, rue Amelot, 75011 Paris
Monday - Friday: 12pm - 2.30 pm; Saturday - Sunday: 10.30am - 6pm


Pictured: Paperboy Meat (plate), without eggs

Season

A coffee bar, restaurant and juice bar, season is a great all-round breakfast and brunch place for your pancakes, açai bowls, avocado toasts and granola. They've got a couple of places around the city including a special takeaway branch but this one was the original one. Try to get there before 10.30am or it may be difficult to find a table.

1, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris
Monday - Saturday: 8.30am - 1pm; Sunday 8.30am - 7pm

Pictured: Açai bowls & bread with organic nocciolata (hazelnut spread)

Wild and The Moon

100% vegan, organic, cold-pressed, gluten-free and unpasteurised. The guys at wild and the moon are serious about health: no refined sugar, no additives or chemicals, no GMOs, no soy, no dairy and no gluten - nothing added! Most importantly though, their food and drinks are delicious and full of goodness for you.

I have only ever tried their açai bowl (I'm obsessed), their 'nice cream' which was a blend of coconut and red berries, the banana bread and some of their juices. I would recommend all of them! They're so popular that they've got a place in Dubai and are opening one in New York pretty soon.

55, rue Charlot, 75003 Paris
Monday - Friday: 8am - 10.30pm, Saturday - Sunday: 9am - 10.30pm

The Hardware Société 

Located in Montmartre, the Hardware Société is, in my opinion, hands down the best brunch place in Paris. In fact, it only serves brunch - a restaurant dedicated to brunch. The restaurant was originally opened in Melbourne, Australia and made its way to Paris earlier last year, incorporating both Australian and French breakfast favourites into their menu.

They have it all: eggs, croissants (which come with incredible jam from la chambre aux confitures), bircher muesli, pain perdu, duck, salmon - you name it. The dishes are indulgent and should be savoured with every bite - the pain perdu that I had was raspberry and passion fruit flavoured and was honestly the best french toast I have ever had. If you would like to read more on the restaurant please click here. Try to get there early-ish (around 11) if you don't want to wait too long for a table.

10, rue Lamarck, 75018 Paris
Monday, Thursday & Friday: 9am - 4pm; Saturday & Sunday: 9.30am - 4.30pm (closed Tuesday & Wednesday)

Pictured: Bircher muesli

Love Juice Bar

One of my more recent finds in Paris, Love Juice Bar is almost completely dedicated to smoothie bowls and juices. Organic, vegan, gluten free and plastic free, their three main smoothie bowls are açai, peanut butter and chocolate but they sometimes have some seasonal flavours.

The owner Nadia is absolutely wonderful and she makes the absolute best smoothie bowls as well as avocado toast - seriously, try them! Not to mention the fact that compared to other places in the city, her smoothie bowls are incredibly well priced and generous.

26, rue Chapon, 75003 Paris
Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 10am - 6pm, Sunday 12pm - 5pm (closed Tuesday and Wednesday)

Pictured: Peanut butter bowls

Marcel

This cute restaurant has two locations in the city. I have only ever been to the one in Montmartre as it was a 3 minute walk from the first flat that I lived in, perfect for the hungover brunch dates. You also had a lovely view of one of the cutest streets in Paris if you sat outside.

They have both savoury breakfast options (full English breakfast, lots of different eggs) and sweet options (waffles, pancakes, pain perdu, granola). When I went there we got waffles and pancakes which came with blueberries and the most incredible chantilly cream. Brunch is only served on Saturdays and Sundays, but they've got a really good normal menu too for your lunch and dinner needs.

1 Villa Léandre, 75018 Paris (Montmartre)
15, rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris
Brunch Saturday & Sunday: 10am - 7pm

Pictured: Waffles & Pancakes

Bol Porridge Bar

A café/restaurant entirely dedicated to porridge with both your classic sweet but also savoury options. Prices start at 6 euros so much cheaper compared to the other traditional brunch places on this list, although it's probably more of a breakfast option unless you're a fairly light eater.

They have set flavours of porridge or you can create your own with different flavours. We got the special of the day which was a vegan protein porridge bowl - almonds, peanut butter, plant-based protein powder, banana and almond milk. Seriously yummy and filling - great Scandinavian vibe interiors too.

76, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010 Paris
Monday - Friday: 8.30am - 2.30pm (closed Saturday and Sunday)

Pictured: Porridge of the day (vegan protein bowl)

Angelina

For the most typically 'French' experience, despite it being full of tourists, head to Angelina, founded in Paris in 1903, for the most beautiful pastries and rich, luscious hot chocolate. You can order different types of set breakfasts ranging from €20 to €29.50 or their massive brunch for €39.50. If you're like me and don't want to blow the budget, slip into their salon de thé and enjoy a croissant and a hot chocolate or a coffee as a light breakfast.

They have many different locations around the city, however their most famous is probably their restaurant on rue de Rivoli. If you would like to read more on the restaurant please click here.

226, rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris
Monday - Thursday: 7.30am - 7pm, Friday: 7.30am - 7.30pm, Saturday & Sunday: 8.30am - 7.30pm

Pictured: Espresso, croissant & mont blanc pastry

Biglove 

Brunch in Paris - Italian style! This is the Big Mamma Group restaurant which specialises in gluten free pizzas and brunch. Unlike some of the other places on this list, it's definitely not a super healthy option but it's definitely worth it nonetheless.

The interiors are super Italian - meats hanging from the ceiling and décor that is almost chaotic however in true Italian style, works. Food includes options such as pain perdu, pancakes, yoghurt, avocado prosciutto toast, truffle eggs etc. We got so much food when we went there and would suggest that you do too, it was all delicious. If you would like to read more on the restaurant please click here.

30, rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris
Monday - Sunday: 9am - 4.30pm, 7pm - 10.30pm

Pictured: Pancake, brioche, banana chocolate cookie & pain perdu

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• 6 of Paris' Secret Bars & 'Speakeasies' 

Paris is full of Prohibition-style speakeasy bars which generally serve expensive, but cool cocktails.

For those of you that don't know, the Prohibition was when the USA banned all alcohol between 1920 and 1933. Naturally, 'speakeasies' (secret bars) popped up all around the country and although the Prohibition is long gone and alcohol was never banned in France, Parisians continue to enjoy the concept of the secret bar.

Here are 6 of Paris' secret bars, from secret hotels to Indian train themed establishments, including tips on how to get inside them.

Bar à Naan

Hidden behind a door in a vegan Indian street food restaurant, this speakeasy is themed like an Indian train and the cocktails do not disappoint. There are screens on the walls which are supposed to be windows, showing you scenes from the Indian countryside, luggage racks on the walls where you can leave your jackets and the menu looks like a passport - even the waiters working there are in traditional Indian dress.

They serve some tapas style Indian food inside the bar, however it is quite expensive so if you are looking for a bite to eat I would highly recommend the food in the restaurant - it is under 10 euros for a main and you can choose 4 of their dishes (think curries, grilled vegetables, dahls etc.)

7, rue du Fabourg Saint Martin, 75010 Paris
Tuesday - Sunday, 6.30pm - 2am

Lavomatic

When you walk past this laundromat during the day that's exactly what it is used for, laundry. However at night  a queue starts to form and as you walk into the laundromat you pull open one of the washing machines to reveal a secret door. Walk up the little staircase and find yourself in one of the cosiest secret bars in Paris.

30, rue René Boulanger, 75010 Paris
Tuesday - Saturday, 6pm - 2am

Hotel Particulier Montmartre: Bar Le Très Particulier

Perhaps not a traditional 'secret bar', this establishment is a whole secret hotel with both a bar and a restaurant which is probably one of my favourite places in Paris. Walk up to the gates and press the intercom, stating that you're there for the bar. Walk down the little passageway and on your left you should see a beautiful private courtyard adorned with greenery, but make sure to spot a view of the Eiffel Tower before you go in. Then proceed to spend hours in the serene garden, drinking copious amounts of wine.

23, avenue Junot, 75018 Paris
Every day, 6pm - 2am

Mezcaleria

This Mexican speakeasy bar specialises in drinks made with mezcal (hence the name), a spirit made from an agave plant home to Mexico, just like Tequila. The bar is hidden behind the kitchen of a Peruvian restaurant in Hotel 1K so walk past the reptile in the hotel lobby and ask to visit the bar.

Once you have sneaked your way inside you will find a dimly lit room with a glass ceiling, little lights arranged in the shape of a cross and many calavera style skeletons. Drinks are strong, pricey and often spicy. Accompany your drink with some of their homemade guacamole and nachos - delicious.

13, boulevard du Temple, 75003 Paris
Tuesday - Wednesday: 6pm - 12am; Thursday - Saturday: 7pm - 2am

Candelaria

Candelaria is another Mexican speakeasy bar, this time hidden behind an 8 seater Mexican street food joint specialising in tacos. Enjoy one of their frozen margaritas or be pointed in the direction of what looks like a broom cupboard and enter the secret cocktail bar which has the most perfect romantic lighting.

Cocktails are definitely Mexican themed and they have a beautiful menu, however they aren't centred around mezcal which is great if you're not the biggest fan of it (me) and there is less Mexican décor. The staff are very, very friendly - after numerous bad cocktail choices at other bars I explained what I liked to them and had one of the most delicious cocktails of all my time in Paris.

52, rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris
Sunday - Wednesday: 12pm - 11pm; Thursday - Saturday: 12pm - 12am

The Little Red Door

As the name may suggest, find this speakeasy behind a little red door on rue Charlot in the 'bobo' Marais district. This dimly lit and classy place full of large, plush sofas is probably how one of the more traditional speakeasies looked at the time. As you enter you get handed an interesting looking menu, the pages filled with drawings and no words to be seen. The bar asked a few artists to try their drinks and draw whatever they felt represented them. The bar then took these drawings and created a menu... without words. In theory, you're supposed to have a look at the pictures and pick a drink based on its drawing, however there are cheeky hidden compartments in the menu which list all of the ingredients and the price if you have any allergies or are picky about your drinks.

60, rue Charlot, 75003 Paris
Monday - Wednesday: 6pm - 2am; Thursday - Saturday: 6pm - 3am; Sunday 6pm - 2am

The Big Mamma group has taken the Paris foodie world by storm with their incredible Italian food including their pizzas, truffle pasta and tiramisus. I had been to almost all of their restaurants except for the only one which serves brunch: Biglove Caffè.

Knowing that I only had a couple of weeks left in Paris and being the brunch lover that I am, I knew that I had to visit before I left, so that's exactly what Marie and I did one Sunday morning.

We woke up bright an early to beat the queues and prepared ourselves for carb heaven...

We decided to order lots of food and share it all (which in hindsight was actually far too much food - definite food babies appeared post-brunch). We ordered:

Pancake aux fruits frais

A big pancake made with buffalo ricotta, seasonal fruits (in our case, strawberries) and almonds

Le bigboy pain perdu

Sexy banana cookie

As the name suggests, a sexy banana cookie with big chunks of chocolate and hazelnuts from Piemont.

Big brioche à la sicilienne

Super soft and fluffy which came with nutella...(!!!)


Our favourites were the two mains, the pain perdu and the pancake. To be honest I think that the pain perdu won - but only just! Definitely go if you're a brunch lover (and carb lover). Other options are a yoghurt with granola, avocado proscuitto toast, truffle eggs, eggs benedict and a hummus/bean concoction, so something for everyone!

They also are the only Big Mamma Group restaurant which serves gluten free pizzas which means that you can try their heavenly pizzas even if you're gluten intolerant or allergic.

After all that food we were in desperate need of a walk. Luckily the cafe is situated in the heart of Le Marais (map etc. below) so we headed off to do some exploring (and burn off some of that breakfast).


Biglove Caffè

30 Rue Debelleyme
75003 Paris

The closest metro stations are Filles du Calvaire (line 8), Rambateau (line 11), Temple (line 3) and République (lines 3, 5, 8, 9 and 11).

They normally open at 9am but for their full opening times feel free to visit their website here (click!)

59 Rue de Rivoli used to be an abandoned building in the heart of Paris until three artists broke in in 1999 and turned it into an artistic hub where artists could "create, live and expose". 18 years later, it's now a (legal) modern art "gallery", housing 30 artist studios as well as an abundance of art everywhere you look.

We made our way inside, got greeted by a lovely lady who explained the history to us, and then were advised to go all the way up to the top floor and slowly make our way down, stopping on each floor to take a peek into the artists' studios.

Which is exactly what we did...

Having a look into the artists' studios on the way down...

The building actually became legalised when the press became interested in their artistic squat and pressure was put on the French state to not evict the artists (which they had been trying to do).

Not only is the building full of art, they also put on concerts in the gallery from 6pm every Saturday and Sunday which must be so fun to go to - it's definitely on the 'to do' list!

Useful Information

• Entry is absolutely 100% free, although you may want to leave a contribution to the artists, it's completely up to you!
• No bookings are needed
• It's open Tuesday to Sunday from 1pm until 8pm
• If you're taking public transport, the closest station is Châtelet which runs on metro lines 1, 7 & 4
• You can take pictures (obviously, as there are about a million in this blog post, but some artists don't want you to so either ask or look out for "pas de photo" signs).